Loo-wev-ay
Loewe was a niche Spanish leather brand founded in 1845, it wasn’t the fashion name on anyone lips until Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson took over the reigns as creative director over a decade ago. Over the last 11 years Loewe has grown to be one of the most sought after luxury labels on the fashion week roster, and as Anderson has recently announced he is leaving Loewe to go to the French House of Dior It felt an appropriate time to take a look back it his tenure because it will no doubt go down in fashion history.
Taking a heritage brand and through innovation, creativity and flair making it one of the most, if not the most exciting, inclusive and original brands on the planet is pretty remarkable. It may seem wild to laud a designer for being creative but so often originality and vision isn’t what gets the tills rolling, its branding and unlike other brands the marketing of Loewe never appeared obnoxious, while the collections were a commercial success it appeared tongues were firmly in cheek and that was the appeal. Audiences lapped it up, from the tomato bag to Rihannas super bowl outfit, to say Jonathan Andersons Loewe went viral is an understatement. Loewe became an internet sensation but one that managed to translate its sense of wit into sales to become one of the most profitable brands in the business and still maintain the respect and critical acclaim of the fashion press.
All designers have a “Muse” and so often they are predictable but not at Loewe, from the late Dame Maggie Smith, Jamie Dornan and Daniel Craig, his Muses were as varied as they were interesting, by choosing Smith to front the ad campaign at age 88 he both showed a reverence for her years and simultaneously broadened his appeal to an older generations, the campaign shot by Juergen Teller featured the actor clutching their best selling Puzzle bag and again, went viral.
All of this might give you the wrong impression that the brand was somehow wasn’t serious, but for every novelty piece seen on the catwalk there was an entirely wearable item that those who could afford to snapped up in their droves, the now infamous Loewe anagram appears embroidered onto jumpers and tank tops, on trainers and on the knees of jeans, this season, Andersons penultimate for the brand, its all about the drape, on shirts, skirts and jeans all held in place with a logo-stamped leather patch.
Rumours are already swirling about his successor, whispers are that American duo Proenza Schouler could be set to take over after leaving their own label brand in January, one things for sure he’s a tough act to follow, all eyes on you Loewe.
