Dandyism

The New York Met 2025 Exhibition is called Superfine: Tailoring Black Style and the official dress code the celebrities had to adhere to for the opening Gala was ‘Tailored for you” with a focus on menswear, this sent me down a rabbit hole exploring suiting, tailoring and black dandyism, but I wanted to write this column without the distraction of the celebrities on the red carpet, as often their interpretation of the dress code distracts entirely from the theme.

The definition of dandyism is a man who places particular importance upon physical appearance and personal grooming, while black dandyism is a fashion and cultural movement, using Avant Garde clothing to express self-identity and challenge societal norms, Actor Colman Domingo and Musicians Andre 3000 and Pharell Williams are the modern Dandys using flamboyant and bold fashion to make a statement.

While mens tailoring is the inspiration you don’t have to opt for an oversized silhouette, if you love it, then you have the option of shopping straight from the mens section, remember with menswear the seamstress is your best friend, a few subtle nips and tucks will make stop an oversized suit from looking clown-like. If that sounds like too much effort, there are plenty of off-the-peg women’s options available  Look for relaxed blazers, slouchy wide leg trousers as seen as Stella McCartney.

I have long been a fan of mens tailoring for women, ever since I discovered the story of Le Smoking jacket designed by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966, bit of trivia for you, the Haute Couture customer at Saint Laurent initially shunned the newly designed tuxedo and only 1 was sold, when it was made available under its Rive Gauche label the younger customer snapped it up and it was part of the YSL collection until 2002. 

If power dressing is more your thing, double breasted fastenings, sharp shoulders, pinstripes, skirt suits and sleeveless waist-jackets  (remember this is a woman’s interpretation of menswear) for a very refined look for cropped jackets with slim cigarette leg trousers, less easy to wear but very dandy.

If you really want to honour the theme of dandyism then you are going to need to step up the accessories, a simple 2 piece suit won’t cut it, think shirt and matching tie, neckerchiefs, cravats, bow-ties, corsages, pocket squares, pocket-watches and brooches and fedoras, this isn’t a look you dip a toe into, It represents so much more, are you brave enough to try it?